Off
the boat and on the road by about 0930. The roadside scenery, once
again, was magnificent. The roads 1st class. My F800GS
gave me 28kms/litre at a 65km/hr average. And on shitty 85 octane
petrol, with ethanol. Amazing.
All
good things come to an end. There had been a massive landslide. The
road had been completely cut since 5am. We rode to the head of the
line and waited about 1 ½ hours. Our plan to be in Cusco by Sunday
was shot.
This
has to be one of the all time most scenic rides. Through farmland,
jungle, alongside and high above the river. Mostly a tremendous
surface, lovely corners. Very little traffic. It doesn't get much
better than this.
We
hadn't given our Metzeler Karoo 3's a workout on tight, smooth
surfaced asphalt corners before. We were surprised how well they hung
on. The Metzeler guy in Sao Paulo asked for us to give him feedback.
He will be pleased with mine.
There
is a serious security problem in this area. I don't think the
Government has much control over the highways. We see guys dressed in
black, wielding auto shotguns stationed at the side of the road. They
are Farmer Vigilantes. They are the good guys. In years gone by, this
was prime Shinning Path Rebel territory. Now the good guys run the
show. Only problem is they go home to their families at sunset and
Bandits have been known to roam. Their tactic is to roll a car across
the road. So, we would have to stop. We are prime targets. Finished for the day at 4pm and stayed in a quaint town, Juanjui. Parked our
bikes in the photo studio next door to the Hotel. Found a small
grotty dump of a restaurant. The food was to die for and the Cusquena
Negro beer as good as it gets.
On
the road as day broke, headed for Cusco. Today’s ride was one of
the best. The Perivians know how to build a fcuking good road. They
must have a few motorcyclists in their design department. It was the
grouse!
We
had planned to ride over a 4,330 metre pass and sleep at a lower
altitude. As they say, “best laid plans of mice and men”. Later
in the day we were stopped at road works. For two bloody hours. It got
cold, and dark. We waited. And waited. Then waited some more. Met
some great people though.
Eventually
the road opened. We were at the head of the queue. It was like the
start of a Dakar Rally, but with cars, bikes and trucks taking off
together. What a shit fight, and dangerous, and cold. The two hour
queue from the other direction had been let go at the same time as
us. We all met going through a large town. Fcuking chaos. It was
dark, dust and the surface was shit. All great fun though. We loved
it.
Arrived
at Pasco and pulled the pin. It was 4 degrees and getting colder.
Some new friends from the road block helped us find the best hotel in
town. Clean rooms and beds, hot showers and slow internet. Lovely
people as well. Our rooms were not heated, Julio and JC's was 6
degrees in the morning! Parked the four bikes in their restaurant.
Pasco is a mining town, spread over the top of a mountain. They mine
silver, lead and zinc. The joint is a dump.
In
the morning Marcelo felt and looked like shit. JC had been talking on
the big porcelain telephone most of the night. They had massive
headaches, and thought they might be dying. I knew they had AMS. Both
still wanted to ride. I pointed out, you can't ride if you can't
walk. AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) is caused by a lack of oxygen in
the air. Riding from 200 metres above sea level to 4,300 in one day
was pushing the envelope to far. People have died in under 10 hours.
We caught a taxi to the Hospital.
This
joint was also a dump. The nurses and doctors the best. Put both our
boys on oxygen for a couple of hours. Gave them both a gigantic
needle in the arse. Said go back to bed for the day and get the hell
out of here in the morning.
JC
said he hasn't been to Hospital since he was circumcised. Until this
trip. Now he has been 3 times!
We
all slept for a few more hours and walked to the local Sunday
markets. Marcelo bought a sweat shirt. I think he has worn it 24/7
since.
After
dark we walked to a pretty good sort of restaurant near our Hotel. It
was 2 degrees and snowing. Decided we wouldn't leave until 0700
tomorrow. It rained all night.
Monday.
Bright, sunny and at 4 degrees relatively warm. A great day for
riding. The boys felt a lot better. I had lost my appetite, another
sign on AMS. Bloody Julio was as fit as a bull.
We
rode 260kms to Huancayo. Good roads. Fast riding. We loved it. Our
BMW's loved it. This is what we came for.
As
we rode into town JC's bike kept cutting out. Each time he managed to
re start her. We tried every trick in our limited repertoire. She
still wouldn't behave. Even hooked her up to Marcello's computer
diagnosis tool. No problems. Decided, as we were less than 400kms
from BMW Lima to put her in a truck and all divert to Lima. I liked
this idea, as I like Lima.
Found
a truck and headed for the big smoke. Only 10.5kms from town and my
bike started to play up, 150 metres further and JC's spat the dummy.
Julio's went for another 10 or so kilometres then became neurotic.
There was only one answer and only one easy solution. Bad fuel and
put them all in a truck (or 2 trucks) and head for Lima.
The
security guy let us into BMW Lima. Left our bikes and checked into
the Hitchikers Backpackers Hostel at Miraflores. This was great place
last time I was here and still is. Got to bed at 4am, up at 8 am.
Marcelo went to BMW, we played tourist, Julio and I the guides. Met
Marcelo for a long and wet Cebiche lunch. As good as it gets. Our
bikes were ready to go at 4pm. Eduardo and Julio from BMW told us we
had been asking them to run on a mixture of petrol, kerosene and
diesel. Not recommended practice.
Lima's
traffic is notoriously bad. To avoid it we were gone by daylight.
Rode our bikes like we had stolen them. They were running beautifully
again. We planned to ride 985kms to Arequipa to meet our film crew.
I
had ridden the first few hundred kilometres earlier in the year with
Dale and Lindsay so knew what to expect. Stopped at Nazca and climbed
a tower for JC to see the Nazca Lines and headed further south.
The
road followed the Pacific Coast, most of the time only metres away.
The Pacific on our right and sand hills on our left. Little traffic,
only the occasional truck. JC and I rode fast. Possibly a little to
fast. A young Columbian guy on a 650 V-Strom overtook us. He was
riding like he thought he was Cameron Donald. A guy on some sort of
Harley tried to keep up. He caught us at a couple of road works. I
have never seen a Harley ridden this hard. We played with him for a
while, then left him in our dust. This was as good as it gets.
It
got dark, the road headed inland. Plenty of trucks and it was cold.
To make things more interesting there was a small rain shower. We
went from sea level to 3,300 metres in about 200kms. This is another
motorcyclists dream road. Absolutely grouse.
Arequipa
is lovely. Beth had an excellent Hotel for us. The Flying Dog Hostel.
As usual, parked our bikes inside. The guy made us push them in,
wouldn't let us ride them in. He must have had a bad experience. Pizza
and beer for dinner with Beth and Mariana. They had been to Cusco. It
looked like we weren't going to get there this trip.
Next
morning we played tourist. This time Mariana our guide. Arequipa is a
magnificent city. I could have spent a few days there. Later in the
afternoon we rode the 160kms to Chivay. I don't know enough
superlatives to describe this ride. Most of the time we were above
4,000 metres, a lot of the time it was around 4,900 metres. The
F800GS's lost a bit of power at that altitude. We had them nailed
most of the way. JC said we rode to fast. He was probably correct. It
was definitely the best.
Metzeler
Karoo 3's. Brilliant. They are an off road tire after all. We rode
like they were a sports bike tire. Our BMW F800GS' handling, brakes
and suspension are superb. This is a perfect combination for this
type of trip.
One
of the Worlds best road riding trips would be: Lima, Nazca, Arequipa,
Chivay, Cusco, Lima. It would take about 2 weeks, with sightseeing
and acclimatisation, and I know where to rent bikes in Lima. Anyone
interested?
Chivay
is quaint. Our Hotel good. Showered and headed for a meal and beers.
We were still walking on air. The restaurant had a band playing
Andean music, which I love. This had been a special day.
Our
film crew arrived by bus at 0530. Beth had arranged a guide, and 4
wheel drive, to take them to Nevado Mismi. We left by 0700. About
20kms of superb asphalt then 26kms of narly, shitty, steep, winding,
lovely dirt,sand and gravel track to about 5,250 metres. The scenery
was beyond description. We all loved it. What a ride.
At
one point I left the track to chase and film some wild Lamas. I tried
to take a short cut back, through a not as dry as I
thought, swamp. I got fcuking bogged. This is called “getting your
ambitions mixed up with your capabilities”. What a dropkick! I
tried to get her out. Nearly collapsed from the exertion. Fcuk all
oxygen in the air up here. JC came to help. He got bogged, although
not as bad. He is a little smarter. Julio had to come and help us
both. He didn't get bogged. Must be very smart.
Eventually
caught up to the 4X4 and made it to the top. We had to walk about 500
metres, down a bank and clamber across a field of large rocks to
Nevado Mismi. We were all stuffed.
I
was very surprised to find the water coming out of the cliff froze
before it reached the ground. The Amazon River starts off as ice!
This was good for us. I gathered some ice and covered our warm
champagne bottles with it.
We
took photos, did interviews and acted like school kids.Drank icy cold Amazon water and Brazilian champagne. I dropped my
dacks and did a good old Aussie moon. Bet I'm the first to do that at
the Amazon's scource! Even our guide hadn't been here for 2 years.
People seldom come to Nevado Mismi. He thinks we are probably the
first motorcycles to come up here. Not even the locals ride up this
high. Our guide was the best. He was having fun, and champagne.
The
walk back was a killer. The last hill, although not big, was murder.
We had our riding gear and boots on. I, and everyone else, were
completely buggered when we finally arrived back at the bikes. Almost
in a state of collapse. Maybe the champagne didn't help.
I
had to ride very carefully for the first part of the trip down. I was
to stuffed to ride properly. After we dropped below about 4,500
metres I felt better and enjoyed the ride. At the Hotel everyone else
had a siesta. JC thought his head was about to explode and Mariana
thought she would hurl her guts up. The poor kid looked completely
stuffed. I walked around the town. Eventually, we all seemed to
gravitate to the Chivay's main Plaza. Mariana and JC had survived.
All was good in our world.
An
early dinner, a long interview each and we were all in bed at a
respectable hour.
Once
again we were on the road before 0700. We climbed to 4,900 metres. JC
and I rode like we were teenagers. Dropped down to 3,300 metres and
felt good. The bikes had there power back. Up to 4,900 metres and
back down to the Amazon. After 22 hours we slept at 300 metres and
passed out at 2am. I don't even remember the towns name.
On
the road early. We are so far behind we can't hear the band playing.
JC has to get back to France for business and I am a week late for
work. Julio is meeting his girl in Sao Paulo. This was another great
Peruvian road, through jungle and farmland.
I
like Peru. I love Peru's roads. I even love Peruvians. This country
is road motorcyclist's nirvana.
The
Brazilian Border was 400kms. No problems. It was a quick crossing.
Helps when you are accompanied by a Portuguese speaker. The first
Brazilian town was another 100 odd kms. We arrived after dark. It was
such a shitfightI didn't take the time to remember it's name.
We
left early for the 200km ride to Rio Branco. Our mate Eduardo, the
local Honda dealer was helping arrange to truck our bikes the nearly 4,000kms to Sao
Paulo. This will save us 4 days riding. Eduardo sells plenty of
bikes, nearly 10,000 per year. That's almost 200 per day. Every day,
7 days a week. I find that hard to comprehend. He is also a keen
motorcyclist. One of his mates drove us around town. Even bought us
lunch. He was a farmer, reminded me of Ron Campey.These are great
guys.
Marcelo
tried to book flights to Sao Paulo. All flights were full for 5 days.
The only solution was to catch a taxi to the next large town, Porto
Velho, 560kms away. This we did. At 1am we caught a 2hr flight to
Brasilia, had a 2 hour lay over, then another 2 hour flight to Sao
Paulo.
After
the 1 ½ hour taxi ride to Marcelo and Beth's we had to have a sleep.
Then a swim. Then some beer.
So.
That is the end of this trip. Was it good? Fcuk yes. Would I buy a
BMW F800GS and fit it with Metzeler Karoo 3 tires? Of course I would.
They are a magnificent combination. Did I like my Mormaii jacket and
helmet? Yes. I will wear them on my ride to work to work next week.
What
about “Smiles”? They are the grouse.
And
Marcelo, Julio & JC? Ride with them anywhere, any time. All three
were team players and had a fantastic sense of humour. Particularly
JC, he has a wicked sense of humour and of the ridiculous. And of
course, we all love Beth & Mariana. Miguel is a good bloke a
well.
I
only hope Marcelo doesn't lose my fcuking phone number before his
next project. I have grown fond of being a sponsored rider.
Chris.
xx